When you hear the name Hermès, you immediately think of handbags and fashion accessories such as the “Birkin bag”. What Hermès is less known for is that they also develop very beautiful and complex timepieces.
Introduction
Hermès’ first timepiece saw the light of day in 1912 and was a gift to Emile Hermès’ daughter. Yet it wasn’t until 1928 that they began marketing their timepieces commercially.
In the beginning, their timepieces were a partnership with the Swiss manufacturer Movado. The year 1978 marked a turning point for Hermès with the creation of a new division within the company “La Montre Hermès”.
This year, Hermès introduced some new gems for watches and wonders that we further discuss in this article.
The timepieces
We start off with the most complex, the “Arceau Duc Attelé”.
An amalgamation of Haute Horlogerie and equestrian motifs, this timepiece features a three-axis tourbillon and minute repeater and falls under Hermès’ Arceau line.
The three-axis tourbillon and the ‘tuning fork’ minute repeater, both very impressive complications, are beautifully displayed on the dial side, where you can also admire the tourbillon engine. This sits under a sapphire dome with interwoven double ‘Hs’. The tourbillon, with three separate axes and rotation speeds, operates within a curved hour circle, while the hour-minute display features Arabic numerals and claw-shaped hands.
The minute repeater is activated via a slide on the case and reads the hours, quarters and minutes with hammers in the shape of horses.
The material used for the case improves acoustic resonance, making the minute repeater more audible. The sapphire back reveals intricate gear designs inspired by the Duc Attelé carriage, with anthracite PVD-treated main plate and bridges, and open-worked sapphire crystal bearings.
The Arceau Duc Attelé is available in a limited edition of 24 pieces in titanium or rose gold, each paired with an alligator strap and show once again that Hermès is not just a fashion brand but truly belongs in the world of timepieces.
In addition to the exclusive Arceau Duc Attelé, Hermès also presented their new “Cut” model. With its 36mm watch case, the “Cut” model is rather for the slightly smaller wrist. Hence, this model is categorized under women’s timepieces on the Hermes website. However, we think that due to its sporty appearance and different choice of finishes, there are certainly versions that would not look out of place on a man’s wrist. The timepiece is a real chameleon due to the range of different colors and materials of watch straps that can be replaced in a very quick and easy way. This is illustrated on the Hermès website with a very funny animated video that you can watch here.
The transparent case back introduces you to the beautiful H-style decorated Hermès Manufacture H1912 movement. This mechanical self-winding movement has a power reserve of 50 hours and a water resistance of 100m.
The “Cut” has an entry price of 5400 euros for the version with the rubber strap and steel case. A small personal downside of this timepiece is the standard factory warranty of 2 years, where most watch manufacturers in this segment offer a 5-year warranty.
A timepiece that is also definitely not to be missed in this review is the H08 model introduced last year. This timepiece has made Hermès come on my radar for me personally. Its sporty look and options for personalization has made the H08 one of the successes for Hermès. No wonder they are continuing on this momentum for the smaller wrist with the previously discussed “Cut” model.
With its various color combinations and timeless simplicity, the H08 appeals to a wide audience. The 39 mm wide case does ensure that this timepiece is geared more towards the slightly larger wrist, which is why it is also categorized under the men’s section on the Hermès site. If you as a woman also have a slightly larger wrist then this timepiece will certainly not be out of place for you.
The watch case of the H08 is made of Titanium which makes it a very light timepiece in combination with the rubber strap. The timepiece has a starting price of 5650 euros which is certainly not cheap but if you look at its direct competitor in terms of style, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, the H08 is a bargain.
Conclusion
Hermès has been successfully focusing on the watch market in recent years. They manage to bring trendy models to the market that can stand out with the competition. This year’s new introductions confirm this and we are curious to see what Hermès has in store for the coming years.