We would like to add to the list of road trips a trip to the south of France with the oldtimer. Most of the trip we will take the “route-nationale”. Throughout the report, we will give tips and share our experiences.

It would be a very different kind of travelling, usually we get into the car and want to reach the destination as quickly as possible. This time, the holiday would start as soon as we turned the ignition key. Enjoying the surroundings, the car and driving would be the key words for the next week.

And here is the first tip. If you are planning to travel several thousand miles with your old-timer, be sure to check the following points.

Check all fluid levels such as oil, coolant, screen wash fluid and brake fluid.
Be sure to check your tyres; some old-timers have old tyres. Check them for profile depth and also for any cracks in the rubber or other damage. Also check the tyre pressure, of course.
If your battery is very old, replace it or have it tested.
Check all belts for abnormal wear or cracks.
Also replace filters such as air and oil filters.

Throughout this report you will find some links to hotels or restaurants that we had good experiences with. Not that you have to do anything with them, but sometimes it is useful to know where there is a good restaurant, for example.

Sedan

We leave at a time of severe flooding in Wallonia. That is why we decide to take the motorway in Belgium for the stretch. Our first destination is Sedan, just across the French border. From there, we choose the route nationale. But not without first stopping in the town and having a coffee.

If you take the shortcut, you are more likely to encounter a diversion. Or, as in our case, a road that is half flooded. In France, too, it has clearly rained hard. But it makes the ride all the more fun. Even though it is going much slower, it is not boring at all.

Besancon

The final destination for our first day was Besancon. We had booked at Hotel de Paris, right in the historical centre. With its own closed parking, a not unimportant condition when you are travelling with your oldtimer. Your car attracts more attention than the average VW or Renault. It gives you more peace of mind knowing that your car is safe.

After a good night’s sleep and a short visit to the city, we could resume our journey in the afternoon. Of course, we took it easy again.

We also stopped near Le Carcan. Carcan is situated on the banks of the Rhone and I got talking to a local who came to look at his boats. And it was because they were rather ‘strange’ boats that I spoke to him. Apparently, there are some kind of jousting tournaments on the water in the region. A bit like in the Middle Ages on horses but on water. This kind of conversation is not going to happen along the motorway I think :-).

Avignon

Today’s destination is Avignon, where we have booked a B&B with enclosed parking on the outskirts of the city.

In the city itself, this was almost impossible to find. This choice soon proved to have advantages and disadvantages. At night, you have the advantage of peace and quiet. However, if you want to do something in the city, you always have to take the car.

The city of Avignon is definitely worth a visit. At the time we were there, the annual theatre festival took place. On just about every street corner and on every square, artists were giving the best of themselves. Both the artists and the thousands of visitors visibly enjoyed their regained freedoms. We ourselves found it sometimes very busy.

Once 6 p.m. had passed, the city was quiet again and the terraces were full. Parking was always possible in the Palais des Papes car park. You end up inside the city walls, so it could not be more central. If you are in Avignon anyway, you should definitely visit the Pont Saint-Bénézet. Probably one of the most photographed bridges in France.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

Avignon is a good starting point to go to the coast. We visited the region of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer where we could drive between the salt lakes.

At some point you pass the above sign. A little further on, you end up on a hardened dirt road with quite a few ditches. All in all, doable and worth a visit, but keep in mind that you may have to return. It would therefore be useful if they just mentioned that it is a dead end for cars. You can continue by bicycle.

In short, a very beautiful region where you can see whole groups of flamingos. During our passage, there was only a small group, but not less beautiful.

Sainte-Colombe

Our next destination was Sainte-Colombe, a tiny hamlet near Bedoin. Not that we are cyclists or anything but because a recent work visit had shown us that this was a beautiful region, we came back. We stayed in a charming little hotel called ‘La Garance‘ from where we could explore the area.

Senanque Abbey

First we went to Senanque Abbey, better known from the pictures with a lavender field in front of the abbey. A golden tip, make sure you are there at 10 o’clock in the morning. By noon, it is hopeless. At the time of our visit, the abbey was in full restoration. Serious renovation work was also going on inside. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit.

Mont-Ventoux

If you are in this region and your car can handle it, driving up Mont-Ventoux is a must-do. With the 850, this went very smoothly and without any difficulty. The Deux-Chevaux that we passed halfway up clearly had more trouble with it. We did the climb on the side of Bedoin. The descent is best done in the direction of Sault. That road is more beautiful and has more bends. Braking on your engine is important here because you are descending seriously for many miles.

Gorges de la Nesque

Another route you really should drive is the gorges de la nesque. It will take you a while but the ride is beautiful. The road surface has been renewed this year and is in perfect condition. The views are breathtaking and the bends follow each other in quick tempo.

In some places, it is rather narrow, so watch out for oncoming traffic. No heavy climbs, so every classic car can do this ride for sure.

Bedoin

Of course, Bedoin itself may not be missed, this town really breathes cycling. Apart from the fact that there are more cyclists here than on an average Flemish fair, it is a pleasant town with some 3000 inhabitants. If you are here anyway, make sure you walk to the church. It has just been restored and the path behind the church leads to a high plateau with a view of the entire region.

Be sure to stop by ‘Le Flandrien‘, this bistro is run by Flemish people and is a pleasant place to be. The prices for eating there are very democratic and the service extremely friendly.

Venasque

Actually, in this region you will find one old village after another. Often on top of a hill like Venasque. This charming village is again worth a visit. The drive there is steep uphill with some hairpin bends where you have to watch out for oncoming traffic.

Apart from the fact that it is a beautiful drive to the village, Venasque appears to be one of the most beautiful villages in France, according to many. It is pleasant to sit on a terrace. The village is home to many artists such as painters and ceramists.

For me, but also for many others, a holiday is not complete if you can’t eat well. And not for one or the other, this region really has some gems. It is not my intention to advertise them, but if they are good, let’s say so.

On the recommendation of Johana (La Garange) we visited ‘Le Mas des Vignes‘. If you make a reservation ask for a table on the terrace, the view is breathtaking. Of course you can’t eat from a beautiful view. But that does not disappoint either, on the contrary. Highly recommended, good food, friendly service and nice and quiet. What more could you want when the sun is setting?

Carpentras

Carpentras was once a location where both Greek and Roman traders traded numerous goods. During the glory days of the Roman Empire, the city was known as Carpentoracte Meminorum. Later, it was renamed Forum Neronis after the Roman Emperor Nero. It was a prosperous city until it was looted by the Crusaders in 1204. Today, it is a pleasant city to walk around with a good mix of commerce, hospitality and history.

We visited the city during the market day on Friday morning. It is quite busy then and if you are not there very early, finding a parking space is almost an utopia. Until after some searching we found the E.leclerc supermarket with a parking for about 1000 cars, which is also free. A ten-minute walk brings you to the centre of the city.

Crillon Le Brave

Another tiny village where time has clearly stood still for a long time. In the evening, the village is enchantingly lit.

Of course, all that walking and driving makes you hungry again. We were already spoilt by our visit to Le Mas des Vignes and were looking for something similar. Who seeks, finds and so we ended up at La Table Du Ventoux in Crillon Le Brave. It turned out to be a real gem. The perfectly prepared dishes stimulate all your senses. Combine all this delicious food with a very pleasant atmosphere and who said anything about living like a god in France? Well, we had the feeling that we were getting close. The view from the restaurant terrace is once again magnificent.

Conclusion

This concludes our road trip to southern France with the oldtimer. Of course, you can just as well do this trip with a recent car or motorcycle. We also did the trip home in two days with a stopover in Troyes. It was a different way of travelling, and we liked it. So we can only recommend it.

Estimated reading time: 25 minutes

Report and Photos: Patrick Verheeken